Here at We The Food Snobs we are afforded some rather privileged opportunities at times but none more so than an invite that we received recently, regarding a little restaurant known as Murano. Yes, the famous establishment from one of Britain’s most celebrated chefs of the moment, Angela Hartnett. Awarded a Michelin star, no more than four months after she took the reigns, this was a special setting indeed. What’s more, our hosts for the evening would be none other than Krug champagne. How does a one-off Krug-paired menu at Murano sound? Exceptional is the answer that you are searching for!
When we arrived at Murano, we were greeted with a friendly welcome and quickly shown to our table. To our surprise, we were to be seated at the head table with Krug Winemaker, Julie Cavil. We’d be lying if we said we weren’t feeling slightly intimidated by the calibre of our company but were quickly made to feel welcome and we couldn’t ask for a better guide through Krug’s magnificent offerings for the night.
Angela joined us at our table for a brief introduction, before joining Julie at the front of the restaurant, to address diners, detail the night’s proceedings and disclose a few special insights into the bottles that we would be tasting throughout the evening.
The menu for the night would take us through a selection of some of both parties’ finest work, starting the evening with jeroboams of Krug’s Grand Cuvée, paired with moreish starters, that were so delectable they had the potential to spoil the appetite for the rest of the meal. For those not familiar with Krug, the Grand Cuvée is a blend of over 120 wines created from ten or more different vintages, some up to fifteen years in age and including three grape varieties.
A thoroughly enjoyable dish of Veal Sweetbreads, Potato Gnocchi, Broad Beans, Peas, Green Apple & Hazelnuts was to follow, this time with a glass of a most special Krug indeed. The 2003 vintage, known as one of the most exciting, if not the most challenging vintages to date. Numerous variables including early flowering, April frost, extreme heat and the earliest harvest since 1822, meant that this bottle almost didn”t see the light of day. Needless to say it was a completely different Champagne, not in terms of quality, as with Krug this is never in doubt, but due to the re-structure in the grapes used, you could really appreciate the stylistic differences.
The main course was probably the dish of the night though, with a Cumbrian Rack Of Lamb, Spiced Aubergine Purée, Dates & Salsa Verde, we were truly being spoilt on both fronts! For this course a Krug Rosé was selected. Quite different to your average Rosé Champagne, it again is a blended vintage but to us seemed more of a wine than Champagne when compared to the others tasted previously in the night.
The final two courses returned to the Grand Cuvée, firstly for a short course of Parmigiano Reggiano and then a most delicious dessert of Spiced Pain Perdu, Fresh Cherries & Honey. Another delicious pairing and thanks to the Krug iPhone app, we were able to detail the exact characteristics of this final bottle of Grand Cuvée, a quite genius touch we think you’ll agree!
Blended from 134 wines from 12 different years, as far back as 1990, it really hit home just how complex the blending process could really be. We definitely left that evening with a greater respect for this wonderful Champagne and were incredibly grateful to our companions for the evening, especially Julie, who guided us through, what was indeed, a truly special evening.
If you are a lover of Champagne and fine food, you will do well to join such a journey of indulgence and enlightenment. These evenings only happen every so often so be sure to keep your eyes peeled for the opportunity to sample, what we would describe as one of our most privileged and enjoyable experiences since starting on this adventure into London’s finest offerings.
We The Food Snobs x