A bacchanalian feast at Dead Dolls House

Bacchanalian – defined as being characterised by ‘drunken revelry’ and associated with all sorts of uninhibited indulgence – is one of our favourite words, so when we received an invitation to the last in a series of feasts by that description at Dead Dolls House, we knew it was going to be a good night.

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Inspired by the ancient Roman feasts of Bacchus (which gives the word its roots), Dead Dolls House’s chef Joe Hill put together an Italian feasting menu of four courses to be accompanied by plenty of free-flowing booze. The Upper Street venue is one of Islington’s favourite drinking holes, but is fast gaining a reputation as a go-to eatery too. As well as the ground floor bar-cum-dining room, it has three private dining and function rooms – one of which is a vaulted, beam-ceilinged room with a fully-equipped bar and sizeable kitchen – a great space for a party.

We started with Prosecco on tap followed by a house cocktail – the refreshing ‘Dead Dolls spritz’ – before tucking into the first course of burrata with nori pesto. Creamy and rustic, it’s a dish that invariably delights. Next up, the tempting squid ink vongole with clams – a classic that the chef has pimped up with molten blobs of nduja sausage. More pasta followed in the form of delicately seasoned lamb ravioli, followed by a pudding of fried ricotta dumplings with berries and elderflower-laced chantilly cream.

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If that sounds like a feast you’d like to tuck into, we have both good and bad news for you. The bad news is that the feasting series has now ended, so you missed out (sorry). The good news, however, is that Dead Dolls House has a delicious-sounding brunch menu that’s guaranteed to knock the socks off any hangover. And if the atmosphere at this night is anything to go by, we can guarantee a good time will be had by all who pass the threshold.



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