Sitting in the heart of an imposing new development in Fitzrovia is Percy & Founders – an all day gastro-pub catering for everything from brunch to private dining. We were invited to sample their offerings one evening in August.
The lively and welcoming staff ushered us through to the bar for a pre-dinner cocktail (a zingy Basil Brush, highly recommended) before seating us in the cavernous dining room. The two zones feel very distinct. While the bar teems with suited city-slickers enjoying their post-work prosecco, the restaurant area is much quieter, roomy, and with well-spaced tables. The sheer scale of the place doesn’t stop it from feeling comfortable, and a window in one wall offers a Narnia-esque glimpse into the stunning interior of Middlesex Hospital’s original chapel – all that remains of the original site.
The wine list here is fun to navigate thanks to section headings including ‘For the Curious’ and tactfully named ‘Guilty Pleasures’ (fine wines). The well-informed waiter recommended a Grillo, which was reasonably priced and very quaffable.
Food-wise, a homemade brown sauce served with a Scotch egg starter had a punchy kick to it, while crisped sea bass came with a fragrantly-dressed razor clam. A whole section of the menu is devoted to the Josper Grill – a type of charcoal oven that had a real ‘moment’ around 2010. Although they’ve fallen out of favour with some of today’s chefs, the ribeye steak it produced was mouth-watering. Crisp and caramelised on the outside, it carried the charcoal flavour throughout, whilst staying tender and pink on the inside.
Despite being well and truly stuffed, we found room for dessert, and oh were we glad we did! Particularly memorable were the grilled peach with Earl Grey ice cream, and a show-stopping white chocolate mousse with basil sorbet, meringue and strawberries, which tied in perfectly with the Basil Brush cocktail aperitif (these guys do great things with basil).
The latest Public House-cum-dining room from the people behind The Orange (Pimlico) and Thomas Cubitt (Belgravia) promises much of what you’d expect: Polished pub-grub with a few neat twists.
We The Food Snobs x